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Luxury aboard the Orient Express' British Pullman

LONDON--It's not often you take a train, look out the window all during the journey, and see people standing alongside the tracks with cameras at the ready so they can take pictures of the carriages going by.

Not often, that is, unless you're prone to taking Venice-Simplon Orient Express trains. If you are, be prepared for an almost uncountable number of train spotters looking for a rare glimpse of one of the most luxurious and storied conveyances in modern history.

I got a chance to take one of the Venice-Simplon Orient Express journeys recently as part of Road Trip 2011, a daylong meander from London to Bristol, England, and back aboard what's known as the British Pullman. Many people may think that the Venice-Simplon Orient Express is only a train that goes from London to Venice, or Istanbul, but in fact, these days the famous moniker belongs to a company that offers train rides, cruises, hotel stays, and other high end experiences all throughout the world, each of which has its own distinctive name.

The original Orient Express, operated by the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits, stopped running in 2009, but the Venice-Simplon Orient Express employs original, '20s- and '30s-era cars, and encompasses the original Paris-to-Istanbul route.

I had originally hoped to take the five-day trip from London to Venice and back, part of the Venice-Simplon route that also reaches cities like Bucharest, Rome, Krakow, and others, but that wasn't possible. Yet, there's no doubt that if, like me, you find yourself aboard a train like the British Pullman, you'll spend nearly 12 hours in a state of luxury that's well worth your time, and money.

My voyage began at London's Victoria Station, and almost immediately I had in front of me a Bellini and a plate of delicious scrambled eggs with chives and Inverawe smoked salmon (served on a warm potato-and-herb rosti). This was just to set the stage for a day of leisure, lovely views, a lot of champagne, and much more.

Drinking a Bellini at about nine in the morning may seem a bit decadent, but as my escort for the day put it, "It doesn't matter what time it is when you're on the Orient Express."

The British Pullman runs regular routes throughout England from Victoria Station. Each features the same "rake," or set of 11 classic carriages. "The carriages appear in such good condition you would be forgiven for thinking they had lain under dust sheets for most of their life," a British Pullman brochure boasts. "But nothing could be further from the truth. Before forming the magnificent British Pullman train, its cars were part of the most famous services in Britain--the Bournemouth Belle, the Brighton Belle, the Queen of Scots, and the Golden Arrow."

It turns out, however, that the cars were mostly withdrawn from service in the 1960s and 1970s, and gradually were neglected. Some were purchased by enthusiasts, but most spent their days ignored on railway sidings or worse, were consigned to the scrap heap. But in 1977, at a Sotheby's auction in Monte Carlo, James Sherwood, a man who had long hoped to someday bring back the original Orient Express, began the process of purchasing 35 historic Pullmans, restaurant cars, and sleepers. Many had to be restored, and before they could be put in service, they were totally stripped, and other changes were made to make the carriages ready for a modern clientele.

Perhaps the most important task was that of creating what's known as the marquetry, the beautiful art deco designs that highlight each car. "Restoring the marquetry was a very skilled job--luckily, there was Bob Dunn to assist," the brochure reads. "His grandfather, Albert, started the family marquetry business in 1895.... The family had made the original panels in the Pullman carriages Minerva, Ibis, and Audrey. Other prestigious commissions included the Titanic, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, and even Buckingham Palace."

The British Pullman today consists of 11 cars: Audrey, Cygnus, Gwen, Ibis, Ione, Lucille, Minerva, Perseus, Vera, Zena, and Phoenix. My comfortable chair was in the Phoenix, a carriage that was built in 1927 but which burned in a fire in 1936. Its chassis was saved, however, and in 1952, it was rebuilt and, having risen from its ashes, returned to service with the Golden Arrow. The Phoenix features marquetry of flowers on American cherry wood. And it was a favorite of Britain's beloved Queen Mother, and over the years carried dignitaries like French General Charles de Gaulle.  Keep Reading +

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